The heart of Korčula Old Town, both geographically and spiritually, is the Cathedral of St. Mark. It dominates the main square — Trg Sv. Marka — and its bell tower can be seen from anywhere in town and from the sea for miles around.
Construction of the cathedral began in the late 14th century and continued well into the 15th and 16th centuries, which means it represents a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles that tells the story of the town’s own architectural evolution. The facade is a masterpiece of Dalmatian stone carving. Look closely at the rose window — a beautiful circular composition of delicate tracery that frames the entrance. Look at the tympanum above the main door, where a relief of St. Mark himself presides over those who enter. Look at the figures carved into the columns flanking the portal — creatures half-human and half-fantastical, a reminder that medieval stone carvers had a sense of humor along with their piety.
The interior is cool and dim after the brightness of the square outside. The nave is simple but noble, the stone columns solid and enduring. Among the artworks inside, seek out the altarpiece attributed to the Venetian master Jacopo Tintoretto — a remarkable painting that has survived here for over four centuries. A ciborium in the cathedral, an elaborate canopied structure above the altar, is one of the finest examples of this form in Dalmatia.
Visiting the cathedral is free, though a small donation is always welcome. Modest dress is expected — shoulders and knees covered. The experience of attending an evening mass here, with the stone walls lit by candlelight and the voices of the choir filling the space, is one of those things you will not soon forget.
The medieval defenses of Korčula Old Town are among the best-preserved in Croatia. Walking along the surviving sections of the city walls gives you a visceral sense of how this town felt to its medieval inhabitants: protected, positioned, always aware of the sea and what it might bring.
The Land Gate — Kopnena vrata — is the main entrance to the old town from the landward side, and it is one of the finest pieces of defensive architecture on the Adriatic coast. A triumphal arch was added above it in the 17th century, incorporating a Venetian winged lion and a statue of St. Mark, transforming a purely military structure into something that proclaimed civic pride as well as military strength. Passing through the Land Gate today, you still feel the weight of those centuries.
The Tower of All Saints, the Large Governor’s Tower, the Small Governor’s Tower — these circular and polygonal bastions punctuate the walls at strategic intervals, providing overlapping fields of fire that would have made any naval assault extremely costly. Several of the towers can be entered, and the views from their upper levels are spectacular.
The sea walls on the southern and western sides of the old town are particularly dramatic. Here the walls drop almost directly into the water, and on a rough day the waves slap against the base of the stone with enough force to send spray onto the promenade above. On a calm summer evening, the promenade that runs along the base of the walls is one of the finest walks in Dalmatia — locals and visitors alike stroll here in the long Mediterranean dusk, the old town rising above them and the Pelješac Peninsula visible across the water.